Tech Data Sheets
Powder Coating Bundles
Powder Tech 101
Sand Blast Parts with fine or medium grade abrasive material.
You do not have to blast if parts are raw material or have been previously powder coated. You can use our AllPrep (AP) for raw material for best cleaning and phosphating.
Heavy blasting abrasives leave a poor profile on the metal for painting and can actually cause painting defects such as pinholes.
For best results in final finish, lightly sand parts with 220 grit to knock down the profile from sand blasting.
For the best profile from sand blasting use 3060 Black Oxide or 120 Grit Aluminum Oxide.
For previously powder-coated parts, you can lightly scuff the powder paint with light grit sandpaper (220 grit) and powder coat over top of older powder. Preheating part to 125-175o will help powder stick to the part.
For best results, spray on Columbia Coatings
(Iron Phosphate) and rinse after 30 seconds. This promotes adhesion to the metal powder coated part.
Make sure gun is properly color changed to color desired for coating.
Make sure gun has proper air pressure (refer to powder gun manual). If using Hyper Smooth or Kool Koat Powder System we recommend 60-90 psi to control box. We highly recommend putting an Air Regulator on the gun itself and do not rely on a compressor to regulate air because of actual pressure that builds in air hose itself is more than the gun requires and can cause bursting of powder at the end of the gun.
Make sure part is properly grounded by gun clamp to true earth ground or through other grounding source.
We suggest preheating parts at 375-400o for 10-25 minutes to help outgas parts and kill any material such as oils that could have been missed when cleaning parts.
Coat parts 3 to 5 minutes after preheating or 125-175o as this helps in getting into Faraday Cage Effect areas that are down in the areas that powder has a hard time getting into (cracks and creases) and shooting warm also uses less powder. It is not required with Hyper Smooth or Kool Koat guns but it helps with other guns to stick.
Light Parts: 385o for 15-20 minutes. (Pulleys, Brackets and other small items.)
Heavy Parts: 385 - 400o for 15-25 minutes. (Wheels, Intake Manifolds, Etc.)
(M1692013) for Translucent Colors and/or with
Satin White Base
(S5750009) for Red Fluorescent or our
Zinc Rich Coating
Partial Cure for 5 to 10 Minutes at 375 â€“ 385o.
Remember: This is for all base and/or mid-coats that are going to have a final coat such as clear on top with the exception of chrome below.
Chrome, as a base coat to clear, must be fully cured at 385 â€“ 400o for 15-25 minutes to get full luster of the chrome. Let part(s) cool down to less than 100o or lower before adding our
Super Durable Wet Clear