PRETREATMENT

1. Sandblast parts with fine or medium grade abrasive material.

  • For the best profile from sand blasting use 3060 Black Oxide or 120 Grit Aluminum Oxide.
  • Heavy blasting abrasives are not recommended because they leave a poor profile on the metal for painting and can cause painting defects such as pinholes.
  • Blasting is not required if parts are raw material or have been previously powder coated.
  • Raw Material: Use AllPrep (Iron Phophate) for cleaning and phosphating.
  • Powder Coated Items: Lightly scuff the powder paint with a light grit sandpaper (220 grit) and powder coat over the top of the old powder. Preheating the part(s) to 125-175ºF will help powder adhere to the part.
  • For aluminum parts or bad outgassing parts we recommend our Out Gass Builder Primer (W6779001).

2. To promote powder adhesion to the metal when powder coating, we highly recommend spraying All Prep (Iron Phosphate) to your parts and rinse after 30 seconds.
3. Parts should be blown dry or placed in the oven to dry.


POWDER PAINTING

  1. Be sure gun is properly changed to the color desired before coating.
  2. Check that you have the proper air pressure set (Refer to your powder gun manual). If using our Hyper Smooth or Kool Koat Powder Systems, we recommend 30-60 psi to the control box. We highly recommend using an air regulator and not relying on a compressor to regulate the air because the actual pressure that builds up in the air hose is more than the gun requires and can cause bursting of powder at the end of the gun.
  3. Make sure the part you are going to powder coat is properly grounded to a true earth ground.
  4. Preheating parts at 375-400ºF for 10-25 minutes is highly recommended to help outgas parts and kill any material such as oils that could have been missed when cleaning parts.
  5. Cool for 3-5 minutes or until the material reaches 150ºF. This will help with Faraday Cage Effect in the areas where powder has a hard time adhering such as cracks and creases in your parts, plus shooting warm uses less powder. It is not required with our Hyper Smooth and Kool Koat Gun Systems but will help with other gun systems.


CURING

1. Single Coats

  • Light Parts: 385ºF for 20-25 minutes (ie. Pulleys, brackets and other small parts)
  • Heavy Parts: 385-400ºF for 25-30 minutes (ie. Wheels, intakes, manifolds) Heavier part=higher temperature

2. Multiple Coats

  • Chrome/Silver base coat with a translucent and/or clear top coat
  • Satin White base coat with Red Fluorescent
  • Primer base coat
  • Dormant base coat with a clear top coat

Solid Colors: Partial cure for 5-10 minutes.
Metallics: Full cure at 385-400ºF for 25-30 minutes. Let parts cool down to less than 100ºF before adding a top coat.

NOTE: These are just general guidelines. Follow the exact cure schedule for each powder found on the respective Tech Data Sheet.